SOME STATISTICS
Kathmandu
Days riding : 2
Distance :
Height gained :
Tibet - Lhasa to Kathmandu
Days riding : 15
Distance : 695 miles
Height climbed : 11,781m (38,650 feet)
Weight lost : 8lbs
Seat pins broken : 2
Punctures : 2
See more of my photos at : Tibet photos
Saturday 25 October 2008
Wednesday 22 October 2008
MONDAY
Really early up next morning as we had to get our bags into lorry so it could get onto the road before it closed at 7.00, then we had a couple of hours to kill until it got light, as we could use the road anytime.
Fantastic ride out, dropping down on tarmac road, and then it turned into one big set of roadworks, as we plummeted down the beautiful valley full of waterfalls, absolutely brilliant riding. 30 miles of bumpy scary downhill along a steep gorge brimming with waterfalls.
At the bottom, the border… and some breakfast!
For some reason you can’t take vehicles over the border so all our luggage, bike boxes and camping equipment had to be unloaded and carried the 1km over the boder by a hoard of porters, most of whom were women. Astounding seeing how much each of them could carry.
On the other side clocks went back 2 and three quarter hours so it was only ten o’clock or so, nevertheless we settled down for some lunch. Not surprisingly, none of us were hungry, however, Russel and I had a couple of beers knowing we only had 25 miles of downhill to our campsite and all day to do it. Encouraged by a couple of bottles of Lhasa beer, Russel and I decided to remain for some more beer while everyone else headed off.
We then had a leisurely cycle down the mountain stopping at various local ‘bars’ on the way chatting to locals. Arrived as it was getting dark at the campsite….
Really early up next morning as we had to get our bags into lorry so it could get onto the road before it closed at 7.00, then we had a couple of hours to kill until it got light, as we could use the road anytime.
Fantastic ride out, dropping down on tarmac road, and then it turned into one big set of roadworks, as we plummeted down the beautiful valley full of waterfalls, absolutely brilliant riding. 30 miles of bumpy scary downhill along a steep gorge brimming with waterfalls.
At the bottom, the border… and some breakfast!
For some reason you can’t take vehicles over the border so all our luggage, bike boxes and camping equipment had to be unloaded and carried the 1km over the boder by a hoard of porters, most of whom were women. Astounding seeing how much each of them could carry.
On the other side clocks went back 2 and three quarter hours so it was only ten o’clock or so, nevertheless we settled down for some lunch. Not surprisingly, none of us were hungry, however, Russel and I had a couple of beers knowing we only had 25 miles of downhill to our campsite and all day to do it. Encouraged by a couple of bottles of Lhasa beer, Russel and I decided to remain for some more beer while everyone else headed off.
We then had a leisurely cycle down the mountain stopping at various local ‘bars’ on the way chatting to locals. Arrived as it was getting dark at the campsite….
Sunday, Day #14
Very very cold this morning, minus 15 degrees at breakfast! And was first night that I felt slightly chilly in my four seasons expedition sleeping bag. First half hour very uncomfortable as my fingers were so cold I seriously was concerned about frost bite, but then got into the sun and started the first of our two final climbs. I felt remarkably good and got into a good rhythm. Soon I was overtaking people, Alvis, Woolfgang and Heidi. I was first to the top after the three fast boys, feel I have established my natural pecking order!! The second and fin
al climb of the trip was more boring, just a long more or less straight grind. However, a real sense of elation at the top as it was the final pass we had to cross.
Then began the downhill… first, fantastic open bends unfortunately not tarmaced, but great fun. Terrain kept changing but all the time going downhill… going through a village I heard a loud bang as my back tyre punctured… I was soon on the road again after a roadside repair watched by a gang of small urchins. Unfortunately, a couple of miles down the road I snapped a second seat pin… the terrain was very rough and could not cope with the bumps. I tried to continue with no saddle but there were too many little climbs so I was forced to abandon. In some ways just as well as it was a long ride and fairly tough by the end. So I missed out on about 15 miles, but claim mechanical problems that could not be fixed.
Tibetan guides worked wonders in Nylam and found a bolt of sorts to fix my saddle, so I was fine for the final two days cycling.
Nylam was a fairly big town and we stayed in a guest house, I was down to share with Mark, but realised that this was just down to penny pinching – we were supposed to be camping but the road was closed… all day everyday, for resurfacing. So I paid up and got my own room.
Internet café and local restaurant for some food with Russel and Derek while the rest eat usual camp stuff.
Very very cold this morning, minus 15 degrees at breakfast! And was first night that I felt slightly chilly in my four seasons expedition sleeping bag. First half hour very uncomfortable as my fingers were so cold I seriously was concerned about frost bite, but then got into the sun and started the first of our two final climbs. I felt remarkably good and got into a good rhythm. Soon I was overtaking people, Alvis, Woolfgang and Heidi. I was first to the top after the three fast boys, feel I have established my natural pecking order!! The second and fin
al climb of the trip was more boring, just a long more or less straight grind. However, a real sense of elation at the top as it was the final pass we had to cross.Then began the downhill… first, fantastic open bends unfortunately not tarmaced, but great fun. Terrain kept changing but all the time going downhill… going through a village I heard a loud bang as my back tyre punctured… I was soon on the road again after a roadside repair watched by a gang of small urchins. Unfortunately, a couple of miles down the road I snapped a second seat pin… the terrain was very rough and could not cope with the bumps. I tried to continue with no saddle but there were too many little climbs so I was forced to abandon. In some ways just as well as it was a long ride and fairly tough by the end. So I missed out on about 15 miles, but claim mechanical problems that could not be fixed.
Tibetan guides worked wonders in Nylam and found a bolt of sorts to fix my saddle, so I was fine for the final two days cycling.
Nylam was a fairly big town and we stayed in a guest house, I was down to share with Mark, but realised that this was just down to penny pinching – we were supposed to be camping but the road was closed… all day everyday, for resurfacing. So I paid up and got my own room.
Internet café and local restaurant for some food with Russel and Derek while the rest eat usual camp stuff.
Wednesday 15 October 2008
Saturday, day#13
Woke up early after a good night’s sleep and watched the sun appear over Everest and the Hymalayas.
Long flat ride along the Freedom Highway today, n
ot tarmac but hard packed dirt. Day of two halves, cycled morning with Russel and had a good time, just before lunch went off piste to a ruined fort made of clay – fascinating. After lunch, however, got very tedious and I got very tired. A combination of yesterday’s great ride and the food being so bad I suspect.
Anyway just about made camp, feeling tired. Lets hope tomorrow is better as we are camped at the bottom of our last pair of passes.
Woke up early after a good night’s sleep and watched the sun appear over Everest and the Hymalayas.
Long flat ride along the Freedom Highway today, n
ot tarmac but hard packed dirt. Day of two halves, cycled morning with Russel and had a good time, just before lunch went off piste to a ruined fort made of clay – fascinating. After lunch, however, got very tedious and I got very tired. A combination of yesterday’s great ride and the food being so bad I suspect.Anyway just about made camp, feeling tired. Lets hope tomorrow is better as we are camped at the bottom of our last pair of passes.
Friday day #12, 40 miles
A fantastic day. Woke up feeling really fit after a good night’s sleep – think I was suffering from altitude yesterday. Headed off on my own before the rest as I like to do. Weather was wonderful with a beautiful clear blue sky and Everest in the background as I slowly cycled up the valley on a rough road, climbing about 500m in 5 miles. Road was packed dirt with some parts covered in rocks but for the mainpart a good surface. Some very steep but short bits that I managed pretty well. Crept up past some little villages to the top of the pass then flat/downhill all the way. Road got a bit more rocky, and sometimes pretty scary as it hung to the hillside high above the river. Came upon a heard of yaks which looked fantastic down below us at the water’s edge, their Sheppards were busy putting away their tent.
Some v steep downhills and at one stage the road veered off to the left with the old road going straight on, I went straight on and found myself going straight down a very steep rocky incline, to meet the diversion at the end. Exhilarating!
More cycling on my own then met up with the car for drinks. At this point we could see what I was told was Tingi, so I headed off on my own across a huge rock field plain. When I got to what I thought was Tingi, I got mobbed by a crowd of very pushy children who kept following me around while I looked for the internet café I was longing for. It should have been obvious to me (a) this was not Tingi and (b) there was not going to be an internet café as I rode up narrow streets with cows wandering around.
Finally left and then saw in the distance Tingri. When I got there it was not much better though it was on the Freedom Highway, just half a mile of shops and hotels selling not much. I had expected it to be tarmaced here but unfortunately not, don’t think we are going to see any tarmac until we get to Nepal.
So, back in camp, feeling tired but happy with the effort I put in today – really have not felt that strong all trip. Feel great.
Some v steep downhills and at one stage the road veered off to the left with the old road going straight on, I went straight on and found myself going straight down a very steep rocky incline, to meet the diversion at the end. Exhilarating!
More cycling on my own then met up with the car for drinks. At this point we could see what I was told was Tingi, so I headed off on my own across a huge rock field plain. When I got to what I thought was Tingi, I got mobbed by a crowd of very pushy children who kept following me around while I looked for the internet café I was longing for. It should have been obvious to me (a) this was not Tingi and (b) there was not going to be an internet café as I rode up narrow streets with cows wandering around.
Finally left and then saw in the distance Tingri. When I got there it was not much better though it was on the Freedom Highway, just half a mile of shops and hotels selling not much. I had expected it to be tarmaced here but unfortunately not, don’t think we are going to see any tarmac until we get to Nepal.
So, back in camp, feeling tired but happy with the effort I put in today – really have not felt that strong all trip. Feel great.
Wednesday, Day #10 25 miles - Up to Ronbuck and Everest
Short ride today, only 35miles, up to Ronbuck but on very rough roads and rising 700m. I decide to take it easy and admire the view. So Russel and I sauntered along taking
pictures. First 20 miles were great but having run out of energy bars I suddently started feeling very tired. As we arrived at lunch there were a goup of gypseys there as well, looked like Danniel had encouraged them by giving then food.
Rongbuk was not what I expected – not a town at all, just a monastery, which is now an hotel, another hotel and a few other buildings. Next to it on a steepish slope is the campsite, and along with us were the large Austrian group of cyclists and the small (8 or so) Dutch cyclists. Russel, Derrek and I went down to the hotel to see if we could get a beer. Great little spot, with a magnificent view of Everest, beer an unbelieavle 8y a bottle, about £1. Imagine what that would cost in the alps. We decided to return at 6 for some dinner to make a change from the vegetarian/carbohydrate stuff we have been getting every evening.
In the middle of the room was a large range, next to which was a big box of Yak dung, which was often shovelled into the burner.
Turns out Daniel took it apon himself to cycle up to base camp on his own, Sterling not pleased as apparently the Austrian group had been found one thousand dollars for wandering off the route. Our Tibetan guide not happy either.
pictures. First 20 miles were great but having run out of energy bars I suddently started feeling very tired. As we arrived at lunch there were a goup of gypseys there as well, looked like Danniel had encouraged them by giving then food.Rongbuk was not what I expected – not a town at all, just a monastery, which is now an hotel, another hotel and a few other buildings. Next to it on a steepish slope is the campsite, and along with us were the large Austrian group of cyclists and the small (8 or so) Dutch cyclists. Russel, Derrek and I went down to the hotel to see if we could get a beer. Great little spot, with a magnificent view of Everest, beer an unbelieavle 8y a bottle, about £1. Imagine what that would cost in the alps. We decided to return at 6 for some dinner to make a change from the vegetarian/carbohydrate stuff we have been getting every evening.
In the middle of the room was a large range, next to which was a big box of Yak dung, which was often shovelled into the burner.
Turns out Daniel took it apon himself to cycle up to base camp on his own, Sterling not pleased as apparently the Austrian group had been found one thousand dollars for wandering off the route. Our Tibetan guide not happy either.
Spent the evening in the hotel which made a very welcome change from the campsite regime and wandered back
around 9.30. Very cold.
Got straight into bed, someone said it was minus 15, I can believe it, my water in the tent was slightly frozen next morning. Group of gillies working for the Dutch next to my tent and insisted on singing Tibetan folk songs way into the night as well as hoiking up all over the place. I had to get up in the middle of the night for a pee – astounding display of stars. You need to be really desperate to get out of your sleeping bag at minus 15!
around 9.30. Very cold.Got straight into bed, someone said it was minus 15, I can believe it, my water in the tent was slightly frozen next morning. Group of gillies working for the Dutch next to my tent and insisted on singing Tibetan folk songs way into the night as well as hoiking up all over the place. I had to get up in the middle of the night for a pee – astounding display of stars. You need to be really desperate to get out of your sleeping bag at minus 15!
Tuesday, Day #9, 48 miles - the dreaded Pang La
Some nice texts from R last night suggesting we go to Cork at half term for a few days with Maeve, good omen!
Feeling a bit tired from exertions of yesterday but lovely bright start to the day, 10 miles mainly downhill to the Everest base camp check point. Here we have to show our passports and a little further along the Freedom highway is the turnoff to Everest base ca
mp… unfortunately the road is not tarmac and is very rough. 4 kms gently rising takes us to another check point which I get to first and am told to wait.After that comes 18k climb rising 700m to Pang La at 5200, reasonable gradient, however, the road surface and the fact that the oxygen content of air here is only63% of that at sea level makes it tough going. There are supposedly 50 hairpin bends, I gave up counting but would not be surprised. After 4km of climbing I get a puncture and as my bike climbing configuration does not include a bag on the back do not have the wherewithal to fix it. However, some of the Aussies club together and give me the necessary. Unfortunately, the tyre levers are very lightweight and not up to the job so I have to wait for the backup vehicle. Which takes a while as Bec is crawling up the mountain. Eventually it turns up and I plus Bec get in. We drive 7km up the hill to lunch where David kindly fixes my puncture. He’s amazed that I have got a puncture with the tyres I’ve got but then discovers that my rim tape was not covering a spoke.
I get on the bike and complete the climb, which is not too bad. At the top an amazing view of the Hymalayas and Everest, takes your breath away. Took a few photos and then started a hairraising descent of 1000m on a rough road. Very scary, nearly lost it a couple of times on some corners. At the bottom a few flat difficult kms on the rutted road. 4x4s for some reason turn the road in to something resembling corrugated steel. Really jarring on the arms and wrists.
But all in all a fantastic day, with the views of Everest really memorable.
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